Food

Issue 04

Page 054

4 min read

Food

4 min read

A Market Morning

Fresh peas, six good stalls and the case for shopping well before nine.

Portrait of Sam Arden in profile, wearing a cream cap, white shirt and black coat.

By Sam Arden

Contributing Writer

A close-up of a pile of fresh green pea pods.

Printed in

The Appetite Issue

Good Taste, Issue 04

The best hour at any market is the first one. The light is good, the stallholders are chatty and the tomatoes have not been squeezed by everyone else yet.

Start with coffee, then vegetables, then cheese, then bread, then flowers. Leave the bakery until last so nothing gets crushed on the way home.

Our route

We spent a month going back, ordering differently each time and asking a lot of questions. What we found was less a trend than a change of habit: people want fewer, better things, and they want to linger over them.

“Shop with your eyes first and your list second.”

What to cook after

Something that needs almost nothing done to it. Sliced tomatoes, good oil, salt. A soft cheese on warm bread. Lunch, sorted.

None of this needs a reservation app or a dress code. It needs a free afternoon, a friend who says yes, and the good sense to order one more thing for the table.

Portrait of Sam Arden in profile, wearing a cream cap, white shirt and black coat.

Sam Arden

Contributing Writer

Sam writes about shops, markets and culture. Usually found in a record shop that also pours wine.

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